There’s a place in Rome where every corner hides a piece of history. Located in the Rione Sant’Angelo, the Jewish Ghetto is not just a neighborhood, but a fascinating story made of art, culture and traditions. So, make yourselves comfortable, because a unique performance is about to begin, where the streets become theatrical wings and the buildings are the backdrop to a timeless story. Are you ready to let yourself be transported? Then, let the show begin!
Theater of Marcellus: the perfect starting point
The curtain rises on the imposing Theatre of Marcellus, the starting point for one of the most fascinating routes through the Ghetto. Located between the Capitoline Hill and the Tiber River, it is considered the “grandfather” of the Colosseum because it inspired the construction of the world’s most famous amphitheater. Conceived by the brilliant mind of Julius Caesar, it was completed around 13 BC by the Emperor Augustus, who dedicated it to his nephew Marcus Claudius Marcellus. It followed the classical Roman theater plan, with a semicircular cavea supported by masonry structures and not on a natural slope, as in the Greek theater. Until the 4th century when the theater began a second life… or rather, more than one. Transformed into a fortress in the Middle Ages, in the 16th century it became the sumptuous noble residence first of the Savelli and then of the Orsini.
The road to the Ghetto
And now, the best part. To admire this marvel up close, you can only visit the exterior, but you just need to cross the gate on Via Montanara. From here, you’ll enter an archaeological area where time seems to have stopped. Following the ancient Roman paving, you’ll tread on the same stones once walked by the citizens of Rome, immersing yourself in an atmosphere suspended between history and legend. Admire the remains of the Temple of Bellona, dedicated to the goddess of war, and the Temple of Apollo Sosianus. Finally, your journey will take you to the majestic Portico of Octavia, a monumental complex that, over the centuries, has seen a succession of imperial splendors and new uses, until it became the symbolic threshold of the Ghetto of Rome.
The Portico of Octavia: a glorious past
Can you hear the lively and boisterous chatter of a medieval fish market? No, we haven’t been catapulted into a small port by the sea, but we are in front of the remains of the Portico of Octavia complex. Erected between 27 and 23 BC by Augustus in honor of his dear sister, it was a true family celebration. It included the temples of Juno Regina and Jupiter Stator, two libraries, one Greek and one Latin, and a room used for public meetings. Inside, there was an open-air museum dedicated to the exhibition of works of art. But time has taken its toll and, over the centuries, this portico has seen many other things.
Among fish and curious tributes
In the Middle Ages, the Portico of Octavia (or rather, what remained of it) went from being a solemn backdrop for imperial ceremonies to a bustling fish market. A plaque dating back to the 16th century commemorates this, stating “Capita piscium hoc marmoreo schemate longitudine majorum usque ad primas pinnas inclusive conservatoribus danto” (meaning “The heads of fish longer than this marble slab up to and including the first fins must be given to the Conservators”). In practice, all the fish heads larger than the size of the marble slab (1.13 meters) had to be handed over to the Conservators. One of the most original taxes in history!
A church… with a surprise
Almost hidden by the Portico of Octavia, stands the Church of Sant’Angelo in Pescheria, which owes its name to the old fish market. The building, consecrated in the 8th century and without a facade, was restored in 1611 at the behest of Pius IV, then in 1741 and again at the end of the 19th century. The interior is divided into three naves by imposing pillars with Ionic capitals decorated with festoons. And now, look closely. At the end of the left aisle, don’t miss the valuable fresco by Benozzo Gozzoli, Madonna with Child and Angels… a very respectable finale! The church was also the setting for a fascinating historical episode. On the night of March 13, 1347, the revolutionary Cola di Rienzo and his followers gathered here, before setting out for the epic conquest of the Campidoglio.
Ghetto… and back again
On July 12, 1555, Pope Paul IV, with the papal bull Cum nimis absurdum, changed the destiny of the Jewish community in Rome forever. The creation of a ghetto was ordered, confined to this area that was unhealthy at the time and plagued by the flooding of the Tiber. The area was surrounded by walls and access was regulated by two heavy doors (later increased to eight), which closed at sunset and reopened at dawn. Freedom remained a mirage within these walls until 1798 when, with the birth of the Roman Republic, the walls were opened for the first time. It was only a brief illusion, however, because the Restoration turned back the hands of history and once again closed the neighborhood in isolation. The definitive turning point came in 1848 when, on the orders of Pope Pius IX, the walls were torn down. This put an end to an era of segregation, opening the doors to a new chapter for the Jewish community.
Piazza delle Cinque Scole
But new surprises awaited the Romans. Continuing along Via del Portico d’Ottavia, at the crossroads between Piazza Costaguti and Piazza delle Cinque Scole, you’ll notice a curious travertine perimeter under your feet. This is the ancient site of the Fountain of Tears. Designed in the 16th century by Giacomo Della Porta, at the end of the 19th century it was dismantled and the upper basin transferred to another fountain on the Janiculum Hill. 1930, however, was a great year for our fountain, which returned home, recovering its original appearance. But, instead of being placed in its original location, it was positioned in Piazza delle Cinque Scole. The strange name is due to the fact that, in the past, the building that housed the five Jewish schools (Scola del Tempio, Scola Nova, Scola Siciliana, Scola Castigliana and Scola Catalana), each with their own traditions, once stood here. The building was demolished in the early 20th century to allow for the construction of the Tiber embankments.
The Tempio Maggiore: a symbol of redemption
At this point, we need to take a step back. The year is 1870. Imagine a Rome trembling under the firm step of the Italian army led by General Raffaele Cadorna. With a cannon shot, the breach of Porta Pia is opened and the temporal power of the popes dissolves like smoke in the wind. As Rome prepared to become the capital of the Kingdom of Italy, the Tempio Maggiore (or Synagogue) entered the scene. Completed in 1904 and designed by architects Osvaldo Armanni and Vincenzo Costa, it is a majestic Art Nouveau building with an aluminum dome that sparkles under the Roman sun. The largest Jewish temple in Europe, it represents the symbol of the redemption of the Roman Jewish community. Inside, the Jewish Museum houses valuable relics that tell the story of the Roman Jews. Since 1932 the Spanish Temple has been located in the Great Synagogue, an oratory that commemorates the time when the Jews, expelled from Spain, found refuge in the Eternal City.
The palace of the future
At this point, we must take a step back and return to Via del Portico d’Ottavia. Here, in 1468, Lorenzo Manili, a merchant with great ambitions, purchased several buildings with the dream of uniting them into a single residence. Unfortunately, his wallet didn’t cooperate and the project remained unfinished. However, the merchant didn’t give up and had an inscription engraved on the facade of the incomplete Palazzo Manili to tell future generations about him. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the year of construction is 2221. Yes, you read that correctly, but there’s a trick: Manili was so passionate about Roman history that the year of construction was calculated from the foundation of Rome (753 BC) and corresponds to 1468 according to our calendar. Don’t immediately look away from this bizarre façade, where you’ll discover original marble from ancient Rome and inscriptions in Latin.
The secret passage of the Ghetto
Continuing along Piazza Costaguti you come to the Tempietto del Carmelo (Little Temple of Carmel). Erected in 1759 to house an icon of Santa Maria del Carmelo, it was later deconsecrated and occupied for many years by a cobbler. Do you see that arch on your left? It’s called Vicolo Costaguti and leads to a narrow courtyard with no exit. Here, in the 19th century, an arched passage was opened that led to Via della Reginella, and therefore out of the Ghetto. Many Jews managed to escape through this access, evading the Nazi raid of October 16, 1943. In memory of the victims of the persecutions, these streets are full of so-called “stumbling stones”, brass cobblestones created by the German artist Gunter Demnig. These are placed in front of the last home of the deportees and bear their name, date of birth and date of deportation.
The Turtle Fountain, among art…
Here we are at last in Piazza Mattei, the elegant center of the ancient Jewish ghetto. Here the Turtle Fountain dominates, an architectural jewel created between 1581 and 1588 by Giacomo della Porta. The fountain has a poly-lobed shape and is decorated with four bronze children playing with dolphins, the work of the Florentine master Taddeo Landini. But there’s a plot twist… Do you know who sculpted those delightful little turtles? Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1658, during a restoration commissioned by Pope Alexander VII. Today, to protect them from vandalism, they have been replaced with copies, while the originals are kept safe at the Capitoline Museums.
…and sudden plot twists
But now comes the juiciest part of the story. According to legend, one day Duke Mattei, a gambling enthusiast, lost both his family fortune and his future father-in-law in one fell swoop, and the latter refused to give his daughter’s hand in marriage. In response, the duke had this magnificent fountain built in one night. The next day, he invited his future bride and her father to the palace and, showing them the work from a window overlooking the square, exclaimed: “This is what a penniless Mattei is capable of accomplishing in a few hours!”. Legend doesn’t tell us if the marriage was a happy one, but we know for sure that the duke left his mark by having the window from which they had admired the fountain bricked up. Look for number 18 in the square… in front of you, you’ll see a bricked up and frescoed window.
The Baroque miracle
The surprises of the Ghetto don’t end here. In Piazza Campitelli there’s a Baroque jewel that was born from an exciting story of faith and hope: the Church of Santa Maria in Campitelli. Imagine Rome in 1656: the plague is raging, the city is in panic and everyone is seeking divine protection. This is where the Madonna di Campitelli comes in, a sacred image to which the people entrust themselves. A church was built in her honor, designed by Carlo Rainaldi, a pupil of Bernini. On the facade the travertine columns create a play of light and shadow and guide the gaze towards the dome and the elegant baroque lantern. But the real enchantment is inside. An interweaving of shapes and perspectives leads to the main altar where the miraculous icon is kept: a very precious work, made of gilded copper foil and enamel, probably dating back to the 11th century. The side chapels house works by Baroque artists, including Sebastiano Conca and Luca Giordano.
The gastronomic treasures of kosher cuisine
As you stroll through the streets of the Ghetto, prepare your taste buds, because the grand finale is served! Here you can dive headlong into the culinary traditions of Jewish-Roman and kosher cuisine. From the legendary artichokes alla giudia (crispy, golden, a real explosion of flavor), to cod fillets. From stracotto, a dish made with very tender beef, to zucchini with a tomato and garlic sauce, to the legendary anchovy and endive pie. And for those with a sweet tooth, the Judeo-Roman tradition awaits with ricotta and sour cherry cake, biscottoni with raisins, almond amaretti and the ancient Jewish pizza, also known as “di Beridde”, a dessert filled with candied fruit and raisins. Know this: the first bite of one of these delicacies will mark the beginning of an eternal love.
Some practical advice
· Admission to the archaeological area of the Theatre of Marcellus is free. The area is open every day, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in the winter.
Access to the Great Temple of Rome is allowed with a guided tour through the entrance to the Jewish Museum, which is closed on Saturdays and during Jewish holidays. To better plan your visit, consult the official website of the Jewish Museum (link to the website ).
The best days to visit the Jewish Ghetto are the middle days of the week. Some shops and restaurants may be closed on Friday evenings and Saturdays, when the Jewish holiday of Shabbat takes place.
