Looking at it from above, it looks like a wide path that winds its way from north to south and that, curve after curve, crosses the Eternal City, placid and imperturbable. The Tiber river is not the only symbol of Rome, but it is certainly the most important. It is present in the myth of its birth, it has been decisive for its history, and it has always accompanied the city and its inhabitants. Its course offers splendid views and many opportunities to deepen your knowledge of the millenary history and wonders of Rome: just read this article and put our advice into practice. Happy browsing!
The Tiber: legend and history
Legend has it that Romulus, founder of Rome and its first king, was abandoned in a basket on the banks of the Tiber together with his twin brother Remus, where he was found by a she-wolf that fed the two newborns, saving their lives. In reality, the river was the very reason for the foundation of the city, because it was an important communication route and a source of sustenance for its inhabitants. However, Rome was not built along the banks of the Tiber, but on the hills that protected it from the dangerous floods of the river and that allowed it to be strategically controlled. For dozens of centuries, devastating floods devastated people and things, as the more than 120 tombstones scattered throughout the city indicate, with the level reached by the waters. Walking through Rome, you might notice these small marble plaques, for example the one on the facade of the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, near the Pantheon (link to the article on the Pantheon), placed a good 20 meters high!
At the end of the 19th century the famous and imposing walls were built which, although fundamental for security, radically changed the appearance of the city and the relationship between the Romans and the Tiber. First the river was moved further away, then social transformations and water pollution marked the end of an era. And so goodbye to diving, beaches, bathing establishments, “fiumaroli” (people who lived on the river), ports, goodbye to that Rome which, until the 1960s, had been inextricably linked to its Tiber.
The Tiber today and tomorrow
Today the river is frequented by rowers training, boats taking tourists for trips, Sunday cyclists and customers of the floating bars moored along its banks. Recently a project was presented for a massive regeneration of the river that should lead to the creation of the largest linear park in Rome, with the redevelopment and reclamation of all the areas involved and the creation of natural oases and new cycle paths. It would be wonderful to finally be able to safely enjoy the Tiber and fully appreciate its beauty. In the meantime, hopefully a good omen, in 2024 the stretch of the river that crosses the historic center of Rome was included among the sites protected by UNESCO.
The bridges of Rome, from north to south
Like outstretched arms, the bridges over the Tiber connect the eastern part of the city to the western part, each with its own history and function. Due to its particular shape, the Flaminio neighborhood has the most bridges of any neighborhood in Rome. And it is from this area that our journey to get to know them better begins. We have chosen a few that we will tell you about briefly.
• Ponte Milvio: also known as Ponte Molle, it is one of the oldest bridges in Rome. Built in 109 BC, in 312 it was the scene of the battle between Constantine and Maxentius that marked the beginning of the Christianization of the Roman Empire. Throughout its history it has been renovated several times, including by the famous architect Giuseppe Valadier. Today the bridge can only be reached on foot and is very popular with young residents and tourists, as it is in an area full of bars and restaurants. For some years it has been the protagonist of the tradition of “love locks”, attracting couples from all over the world who seal their feelings by attaching a padlock to the bridge’s lamp posts and throwing the key into the Tiber.
• Ponte della Musica (Music Bridge) Armando Travajoli: this is the youngest bridge to be built over the Tiber, as can be seen from its modern, light and dynamic design. It is made of steel and reinforced concrete, with a wooden floor, and can only be crossed on foot or by bicycle. Inaugurated in 2011, it connects the Foro Italico, the sporting heart of the city, to the MAXXI museum (link to the article on the MAXXI) and the Parco della Musica Auditorium (link to the article on the Parco della Musica Auditorium), two important cultural centers in Rome. It is very popular with skaters and bike freestylers, who perform incredible tricks underneath it. It’s also a perfect observation point for the Monte Mario hill, which is home to an astronomical observatory and the splendid Villa Madama, designed by Raphael.
• Ponte Matteotti: this bridge not only connects two banks of the Tiber and two neighborhoods, Flaminio and Della Vittoria, but also two different historical phases of Italy. The structure was inaugurated on April 21, 1929 and, as a tribute to the fascist regime, was called Ponte Littorio. After the fall of Mussolini, in June 1945, the bridge was renamed Giacomo Matteotti, to honor the memory of the socialist and anti-fascist politician who was assassinated in 1924.
• The bridges in the Prati neighborhood: Regina Margherita Bridge, Cavour Bridge and Umberto I Bridge
The bridges that lead to the neighborhood of Prati were all designed by the architect Angelo Vescovali and built, in different years, between 1885 and 1901. They are crucial points in the city’s road network, are accessible to vehicles and are between 105 and 120 meters long.
An interesting fact: every New Year’s Eve the tradition of diving into the Tiber is renewed on the Cavour Bridge. The “rite” began way back in 1946 with a bizarre Italian-Belgian gentleman, Rick De Sonay, renamed Mister Ok for the gesture with which he calmed the public once he emerged from the water.
• Ponte Sant’Angelo: this is undoubtedly the most spectacular bridge in Rome. Built in 134 by Emperor Hadrian to lead to his mausoleum, it has been crossed by countless pilgrims, has hosted executions and has been immortalized in billions of photographs. In the 17th century, a new parapet was built based on a design by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, embellished with ten colossal statues of angels. Crossing this bridge in the rare moments when it is deserted (preferably late at night) is an experience that will take you back centuries, in a magical and dreamlike atmosphere.
• Ponte Vittorio Emanuele Secondo and Ponte Principe Amedeo Savoia Aosta delimit the block that includes the complex of Santo Spirito in Sassia: the first was inaugurated twice, in 1911 and in 1912, and connects the Borgo district to Lungotevere Vaticano, a few steps from Via della Conciliazione. The second, on the other hand, was completed in 1942 and connects Borgo to Corso Vittorio Emanuele Secondo. Its structure, clad in white marble, has three arches separated by perforated pillars, whose shape vaguely resembles the bow of a ship.
• Ponte Giuseppe Mazzini: characterized by perforated parapets and richly decorated cast iron street lamps, it was opened to pedestrians and vehicles in 1908.
• Ponte Sisto: exclusively for pedestrians, it was built on the remains of an ancient Roman bridge and inaugurated on the occasion of the Jubilee of 1475. It takes its name from Pope Sixtus IV, the promoter of this work, and connects the heart of Trastevere, specifically Piazza Trilussa, with Via dei Pettinari, in the Regola district.
• Ponte Garibaldi: completed in 1888, it celebrates the exploits and victories of the Hero of Two Worlds. It was the first bridge built in Rome after the unification of Italy and, at the time of its inauguration, it was the third largest in the world (23 meters wide), surpassed only by two bridges in Paris over the Seine. From the bridge you can admire the panorama of the north side of Tiber Island.
• Ponte Cestio and Ponte Fabricio: among the oldest in the city, they connect the two banks of the river on Tiber Island. The first, built around 46 BC, was damaged several times by the impetuosity of the Tiber and was rebuilt several times. During the long centuries of its history it changed several names, until in 1892, after being dismantled to allow the river to expand, it was rebuilt with three large arches using the original stones and took on the name by which we know it today. Ponte Fabricio is the best preserved Roman bridge in the capital and takes its name from Lucius Fabricius, the public official in charge of the roads who built it in 62 BC. The structure consists of two segmental arches supported by a central pillar, in which a round arch opens. The bridge is also known as the Bridge of the Four Heads because of the small columns topped by four heads, probably depicting the god Janus, that decorate the parapet. From the island, the bridge leads to the ancient Jewish Ghetto of Rome.
• Ponte Emilio, also known as Ponte Rotto (Broken Bridge): its only surviving arch emerges from the water like a fantastic creature, just after Isola Tiberina, among branches and very green saplings. It is all that remains of an ancient Roman bridge from the 2nd century BC and, even if it no longer fulfills its function, it has the charm of a majestic, romantic and decadent ruin that we strongly recommend you go and see.
• Ponte Palatino: this is the last bridge in our selection and is also known as the English Bridge, due to the fact that it is used by traffic going in the opposite direction to normal on Italian roads. It was completed in 1890 and is a simple structure, about 155 meters long, with four iron and masonry pillars that constitute a fine example of functional architecture and engineering skill.
The Tiber Island: the island of Rome
It almost looks like a ship moored in the center of the city: Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island) picks up and drops off “passengers” who walk across its bridges and cobblestones, for a stroll or a break in one of its bars. It’s in the heart of Rome, yet it’s a microcosm in its own right, with a history rooted in legend. In fact, it is said that it was formed when the last king of Rome, Tarquinius Superbus, was deposed by the people, who threw his grain supplies into the Tiber as a sign of rebellion, thus creating a small island. In truth, it arose on a tuff bank on which sand and sediments carried by the current had accumulated.
On the island you’ll find a church dedicated to St. John Calibita, built in 1584 but completed in the 18th century, and the medieval basilica of St. Bartholomew. The two hospitals that stand here are evidence of the Tiber Island’s vocation for the care and assistance of the sick. In fact, in ancient times, there was a temple dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine.
We recommend exploring the small area between the Pons Cestius and the Pons Fabricius and enjoying a tasty break in the bistro with ice cream parlor or in the historic restaurant on this jewel of an island.
A boat trip, or rather two
Center or outskirts? There are two routes that allow you to explore Rome from the river, a perfect way to discover new and surprising perspectives. Spoiler: you don’t have to choose, you can very well do both experiences!
The first itinerary will take you along the river in the heart of the city, passing under some of the bridges we told you about and giving you unique views. Some excursions on the Tiber also include an aperitif and/or dinner on board… a nice idea, don’t you think?
The second itinerary, further from the historic center, starts from Ponte Marconi, in the Portuense district, and will take you towards the mouth of the Tiber, on a route that combines nature and archaeology. If you choose this route, you’ll arrive at the Ostia Antica Archaeological Park, Trajan’s Port and Fiumicino, observing the flora and fauna of the river along the way from close up. Thanks to privileged access, you’ll enter the excavations directly from the river, and you can visit the park with a specialized archaeological guide.
For information, we recommend you visit the official tourist website of the Municipality of Rome (link to the website), where you’ll find a list of tour operators offering boat trips on the Tiber, along with their contact details.
