In the heart of the city, along Via Nomentana, Villa Torlonia represents one of the most fascinating places in Rome, where art, history and nature come together in a harmonious balance. Commissioned by the Torlonia family, of recent nobility and which in the 19th century became the most influential house in the capital, the villa has gone through centuries of change, welcoming illustrious figures and transforming itself into a unique place in the Roman landscape. Whether you are a fan of art and history, a lover of photography or simply eager to stroll through regenerating avenues, this villa will captivate you with its timeless elegance and its many curiosities.
A few steps into history
Sometimes, stepping into the past is not so difficult. Just leave behind the chaotic and noisy voice of city life and immerse yourself in a relaxing treasure chest of architectural masterpieces, museums and enchanted gardens. And for this, due thanks must go to Giovanni Torlonia, one of Rome’s richest bankers who, in the early 19th century, bought the Vigna Colonna agricultural estate and decided to turn it into a prestigious residence. The project was entrusted to the ingenious and refined mind of architect Giuseppe Valadier who, inspired by the patrician villas of ancient Rome and combining neoclassical elements, renovated the main building (today’s Casino Nobile) and the small Casino Abbati (today’s Casino dei Principi), built the Scuderie and devoted himself to the arrangement of the park. To him we owe the classically inspired sculptural works that, even today, can be admired while strolling through the avenues of the Villa.
When Giovanni died, his son Alexander, with his eclectic and extravagant taste, continued the work of expansion and renovation, relying on two other internationally renowned architects: Quintiliano Raimondi, who designed the Theater and the Orangery (now called the Limonaia), and Giuseppe Jappelli, who redesigned the southern area of the Villa, propping it up with paths, water mirrors, exotic plants but, above all, extravagant buildings that are nothing like Ludwig II’s Bavarian manors. Trust me, visiting the Swiss Hut (later modified into the Casina delle Civette at the behest of Alexander’s grandson, John Torlonia Jr.), the Greenhouse, the Tower and the Moorish Grotto will be like immersing yourself in a true fairy tale.
But the story of this fantastic noble residence does not end there. Between 1929 and 1943 Villa Torlonia became the residence of Benito Mussolini and his family, then was occupied by Anglo-American troops from 1944 to 1946 until, after a period of neglect, it was purchased by the City of Rome in 1977 and, the following year, finally opened to the public. Today Villa Torlonia, with its museums, works of art and natural beauty, is a space open to all, which also hosts numerous cultural events.
An ad hoc itinerary!
If you have read this far, it means that we have intrigued you a bit. So, how about starting an exciting visit to the most original park in Rome? To make it easier for you, we have prepared an itinerary that will allow you to easily get to know the main places of this wonderful residence.
First of all, position yourself in front of the main entrance of Villa Torlonia, on Via Nomentana, and let the majesty of the two propylaea placed on either side of the wrought-iron gate accompany you inside the park. At this point, forget about the 21st century and immerse yourself in the splendid Art Nouveau atmosphere all around you.
Our journey begins with a visit to the Casino Nobile and the Casino dei Principi, continuing with a walk through the Scuderie Vecchie and the Scuderie Nuove, then reaching the Limonaia for a refreshment break and continuing to the other “highlights” of the Villa, namely the Theater, the Serra Moresca and the enchanting Casina delle Civette.
Casino Nobile and Casino dei Principi
A jewel of neoclassical style, but not without romantic atmospheres, the Casino Nobile was designed by rchitect Giuseppe Valadier in the first half of the 19th century, commissioned by Giovanni Torlonia. Later remodeled by painter and architect Giovan Battista Caretti at the behest of Giovanni’s son Alessandro Torlonia, the building was embellished with a majestic pronaos, which today welcomes visitors eager to enter this timeless place. The pride of the residence is the Ballroom in which light, entering through a single large semicircular window, is reflected off the mirror-covered walls, giving the illusion of being in a larger space.
Losing yourself among the wonderfully decorated rooms of the Casino Nobile, your gaze will not miss the Alexander Room, once used as a dining room, where, amidst frescoes, stucco friezes and mosaic floors, marble statues depicting Alexander the Great stand out, alluding to the patron Alessandro Torlonia. Another treat is the delightful Egyptian Room, entirely frescoed with scenes from the lives of Antony and Cleopatra, set in a fine decoration with hieroglyphics and faux columns.
When, during the Fascist period, the Casino Nobile became the official residence of Benito Mussolini (who, in defiance of today’s high rents, paid Prince Torlonia the symbolic sum of 1 lira a year!), air-raid shelters and a bunker were built, which can now be visited with new multimedia set-up. Equip yourself with comfortable shoes and some courage, and immerse yourself in this unique experience where, amid sounds and ground vibrations, a real air raid is even simulated!
Once out of the Casino Nobile, walk to the right and you will encounter the Casino dei Principi, a small gem in neo-Renaissance style, full of frescoed rooms decorated with stucco and mosaics, and dedicated to the social events of the Torlonia family. The two Casini were (and still are) connected by an underground gallery.
The surprises of the park
At this point, a regenerating walk through the avenues of the large park is a must, a habit that many Romans can no longer give up. Immersed in lush vegetation, a perfect example of an English garden, you can admire historic buildings such as the Scuderie Vecchie, currently home to the library of the National Academy of Sciences, and the Limonaia, once a large shed in which citrus plants found shelter from the cold and today a very pleasant refreshment point, with a bar and restaurant. Next to the Limonaia is the Villino Medievale, an early 20th-century building that houses Tecnotown, a playful museum where children, in an original and fun way, can approach new technologies, such as robotics, three-dimensional photography, music visualization or virtual reconstruction of environments.
As you continue your walk, you will glimpse some fountains and statues inspired by classical mythology and an imposing granite obelisk, which give a neoclassical touch and dialogue with the surrounding nature, creating a perfect combination of art and landscape.
Your gaze will certainly not miss the Villa Torlonia Theater, a small architectural masterpiece, once used for private performances and now visited only at cultural events and concerts. A unique combination of various artistic styles, from Gothic to Moorish, Classical to Renaissance, it features a curious iron and cast iron greenhouse along its southern side, reminiscent of the Nordic style. Created as the court theater of the Torlonia family, it has actually hosted only one performance, The Profile of Agrippina, which, at its inauguration in 1905, saw all the Roman aristocracy gathered.
But the walk through the park’s avenues still holds surprises! In order to evoke an evocative and nostalgic atmosphere, and stimulate the imagination of visitors, during the renovation works, architect Giovan Battista Caretti had so-called “false ruins” built, according to the romantic taste of the time, including the Temple of Saturn. Their location, perfectly integrated with the landscape, still creates an illusion of authenticity, inviting reflection on the transience and beauty of past eras.
The Serra Moresca, the Tower and the artificial cave: a plunge into the Orient
Let us now reach the striking complex of the Serra Moresca: you will be amazed! Designed by architect Giuseppe Jappelli in 1839 and inspired by Islamic architecture, it is a colorful glazed pavilion in the Arabian style, paying homage to the Alhambra in Granada. Amid the play of light and shadow, this iridescent kaleidoscope was used to house exotic plants such as agaves, palms, pineapples and aloes, but it was also a venue for receptions and parties: a half-hidden compartment of the greenhouse, in fact, was employed to house the orchestra that would cheer the social events.
An artificial Grotto is part of the complex: surrounded by stalactites, small waterfalls and ponds, it reflects the eclectic taste of the period and evokes a magical, fairy-tale atmosphere.
Finally, Torre Moresca, designed as an ornamental element and vantage point, was the place where a lucky few could attend sumptuous luncheons held in the top-floor hall. Right here, through an ingenious mechanism, a set table would appear in the center of the room, to the amazement of those present.
The Little House of Owls
That’s right, you’ve been walking for quite a while, but don’t miss the last treat of this fascinating experience. The Casina delle Civette is the result of architect Enrico Gennari’s transformation of the original Swiss Hut at the behest of Giovanni Torlonia Jr. into a curious medieval village with loggias, porticoes and small Gothic-style towers.
Its name derives from the mysterious animal depicted on a stained-glass window, a perfect example of early 20th-century Art Nouveau, and its almost maniacal presence in the interior decorations and furniture. The interiors are a riot of colored majolica, woodwork, and sculptures inspired by animals and plants, among which Prince John Jr. with his shy and introverted character loved to spend his days surrounded by silence and soft light filtering through the polychrome stained glass windows.
A little tip: try to visit the Casina delle Civette around sunset (of course, if the season and the opening hours of the site allow it): the light filtering through the artistic stained glass windows will make the atmosphere even more enchanting.
It is useful to know that
- While admission to the Villa Torlonia park is free, to visit the museums located within it (Casino Nobile, Casino dei Principi, Bunker and air-raid shelters, Serra and Torre Moresca, Casina delle Civette) it is advisable to consult the official website of the Villa Torlonia Museums (Click Here), where you will also find information regarding guided tours, special events and family workshops.
- Are you in Rome on the first Sunday of the month? Take advantage of it, because access to the villa’s museums is free (except for any temporary exhibitions, which may require an admission fee).
- On weekends and holidays, it is advisable to book, on the official website of the Villa Torlonia Museums, admission to the Casina delle Civette and the Serra Moresca complex, which are generally very crowded.
- The park of Villa Torlonia is large and includes avenues alternating with dirt paths: wear comfortable shoes, especially if you plan to visit the bunker and air-raid shelters, which are accessed by rather steep stairs.
